As a travel writer I have been lucky to get to travel to over 100 countries around the world and hand on tartan heart for wildlife viewing I reckon Scotland is right up there with any of them. And there is a very special island that ticks multiple wildlife boxes that you really should head to...
We’re talking a wild and wildly beautiful oasis forged by huge mountains – including the only island Munro outside Skye – and surging ocean, an isle alive with red deer and golden eagles patrolling its glens. Otters splash along the coast and in the water thrive myriad mammals, from dolphins to basking sharks, and all manner of whales. We’re talking, of course, about the Isle of Mull.
Let’s take the ferry over now to Mull together from Oban – you can also hop over here from the peninsulas of Morvern and Ardnamurchan too. Mile for nautical mile this is one of my favourite ferry journeys in Scotland. You enjoy great views of Mull as its coastline leads up to thick forests, in turn stretching up towards the hulk of the isle’s sky-scraping mountains. Mendelssohn was inspired to write his Hebrides Overture in these parts and it is easy to see why.
En route stay out on deck and look out for seals just as you leave Oban Bay and round Kerrera, then as the big hills of Mull start to loom on to the horizon scan the waters for flighty porpoises, plus bottlenose and common dolphins; whales too. Yes, whales. I’ve seen them on this sailing. The bottlenose dolphins are impressive, the largest species of dolphins in the world, more small car than small cetacean. They’re playful too, so you’ll often see them leaping in the air, a sight that warms the soul long after.
We’re arriving in Craignure on Mull now. It’s worth not rushing off the ferry – I’ve lingered on deck and spotted otters right here on the shore splashing around a water pipe within metres of the oblivious tourists chatting as they get off the ferry just above. One of our superb trio of hostels is in Craignure, so there will be more otter spotting opportunities for you if you stay. Just check into the Craignure Bunkhouse, a handy short walk from the ferry.
Away from the water inland is where you’ll find those red deer and golden eagles. Tacking the might of the Munro Ben More is on option, but it’s a long, arduous epic day. I prefer the highest Corbett, Dùn da Ghaoithe, which rises 843m handily just behind Craignure. A solid, wide track takes you up to the solid ridge – always make sure, as with all hikes, you’ve got the right gear and a map with a compass. I’ve been up here twice and seen many deer both times in the glens that stretch all around, with the shrill calls of the eagles echoing around as they soar on the thermals. Spending an hour here once, I sat just me and the Lords of the Glens, who were parading around antlers silhouetted on the skyline – sublime.
We’re moving west across the island to stay at another great hostel now at Dervaig - Dervaig Village Hall Bunkrooms. The wee village of Dervaig lies on Loch a 'Chumhainn. The loch’s sheltered waters and the river that runs down the glen into it are an ideal habitat for myriad birdlife. There are ducks, waders and hen harriers, with otters fishing here too. It’s the sort of landscape it pays time to hang around in and just watch and listen. Slowing down to the pace of life of the loch and its feathered friends is a spirit-soaring experience.
Nearby, Calgary Bay, one of Scotland’s most dramatic cotton-white sandy beaches, tempts. With white sand and deep blue waters it looks like the Caribbean or maybe it should be the other way round as this landscape is millions of years older? The water, wildflower-strewn machair and patches of forest are alive with more otters, sand martin and golden eagles. You might even be lucky and spot a passing sea eagle too.
It's a quick hop in Mull terms from Dervaig across to the island capital of Tobermory. Mull is also renowned for its marine wildlife so you should hook up with Sea Life Mull, who are pioneers of wildlife tourism in the local waters. Their trips bash out of Tobermory Bay – look out for porpoises here as you leave - and explore around Mull, Ardnamurchan and the Isle of Coll. They do research and conservation projects too, so you are part of something bigger as you savour sightings of dolphins, basking sharks and whales. I’ve seen myriad marine mammals on boat trips around Mull, as well as those white-tailed sea eagles. We’re talking sleek minke whales, rare Risso’s dolphin and even killer whales.
We’re heading south now looking for the wilderness of the Ross of Mull, where the peninsula reaches the wee village of Fionnphort, jumping off point for the ferry across to Iona. Our hostel here is another corker – the Ross of Mull Bunkrooms. There is a real end of the world vibe about this gorgeous corner of Mull and it’s great for wildlife too.
You can explore the Ross of Mull hiking – including on the rough Stevenson Way – looking out for deer, otters and dolphins; eagles too. The Stevenson Way pays tribute to Robert Louis Stevenson and his novel Kidnapped, where the protagonist, David Balfour, is shipwrecked nearby. The Way follows his journey across the Ross of Mull, but it’s hard with no waymarking. It’s worth it though, big time! I won’t forget a picnic I had where I was celebrating seeing a brace of eagles, when I was interrupted by a pod of bottlenose dolphins smashing by within metres of the shore.
An easier ride is taking a boat trip to Iona, or either Staffa and Lunga in the Treshnish Isles, where yet more world-class wildlife adventures await. That is Mull, the Scottish island alive with wildlife experiences, whether you prefer to spot dolphins and whales from a boat, soar off hiking with eagles, or just let time slip by birdwatching. And with three great hostels to use as a base what are you waiting for?