Not your average North Coast 500

20 Apr 2022

We sent Kay, better known as the Chaotic Scot, on a North Coast 500 trip with a twist. Kay and her two pals spent six days on their adventure staying in two hostels, a pod and a bothan.

The twist?

  • They didn’t drive the full NC500 route. Instead, they only explored certain sections: arguably the most beautiful.
  • They travelled in March and had most of the sights to themselves.
  • They stayed in independent Scottish Hostels and glamping accommodation, a brilliant alternative to following the campervan crowds.
  • The local hosts picked their activities – choosing fun and authentic experiences
  • They didn’t change accommodation every day – no unpacking and re-packing again every day!
Girls Selfie At Loch Morlich

Below is an extract from her blog, for the full article, go to her website The Chaotic Scot.

We were bound for the most famous and breathtakingly bonnie road-trip route in the land, the North Coast 500. Our days were filled with incessant snacking, high-volume belly laughing, and deep conservation; all the while hopelessly engrossed in the surroundings.

We explored corners of the coast which possess a beauty beyond words, broadcast to us in high definition thanks to the abnormally bright, clear and sunny weather for early-March.

Achmelvich Bay
NC500 Road Trip Base1: INVERNESS

Inverness, ‘Capital of the Highlands’, is the gateway to the NC500 and an ideal overnight stop to break up the journey to the far north. Stock up on any essentials for the trip, walk along the River Ness, and go out for food/drinks.

Kay’s route: Edinburgh to Inverness:

  • Dunkeld – a lovely cathedral town in Perthshire. Stop for toilets, coffee and incredible sweet/savoury bakes from ARAN Bakery, and a forest walk to Black Linn Falls at The Hermitage nearby.
  • Loch Morlich – a stunning loch near Aviemore in the Cairngorms National Park, fringed by golden sand and forest, with mountain views to top it off.
  • Culloden Battlefield– Gain an important insight into Jacobite history, the last battle fought on British soil and the subsequent breakdown of the Highland clan system.
  • Driving time – 4 hours 10 minutes.
Beer Tasting At Black Isle Bar

Where to stay: Black Isle Hostel

Black Isle Hostel offers clean, comfortable, budget-friendly accommodation right in the city centre. Expect a friendly welcome, vibrant interior, lounge area, kitchen, huge shared bathrooms and basic but perfectly nice dorm rooms.

Kay At Wildwoodz Axe Throwing

Inverness: Local sights & activities

  • Beer tasting & woodfired pizzas at Black Isle Bar– the hostel rooms are all conveniently in the same building or the one next door.
  • Visit Black Isle Brewery – stock up on beers for the rest of your adventure and explore the organic vegetable garden.
  • Axe throwing at Wildwoodz – try your hand at this unique outdoor activity.
NC500 Road Trip Base 2:  ACHILTIBUIE

The remote village of Achiltibuie is tucked away on the wildly gorgeous, and often bypassed, Coigach Peninsula. A single track road gives way to moody lochs, vast moorland, under-the-radar beaches and The Summer Isles archipelago. Not on the official NC500 route, this location is quite possibly Scotland’s best detour.

Kay’s route - Inverness to Achiltibuie

  • The Storehouse, Dingwall – an absolute gem of a lunch stop on the Cromarty Firth.
  • Little Garve– fresh air and a stretch of the legs along Black Water river with its waterfalls and historic bridges.
  • Ullapool – this pretty port is well worth a wee wander. Be sure to visit Ullapool Seafood Shack if travelling during the peak season.
  • Driving time: 2.5 hours
Pods At Acheninver
Inside The Pod At Acheninver

Where to stay: Glamping Pods, Acheninver Hostel

This very special site is only just visible from the tiny car park by the roadside. Follow a gravel path down towards the sea, where a white hostel building (formerly a Mountain Bothy), a lovely host (Ruth) and four gorgeous glamping pods await.

My new favourite pods in Scotland, they each come with proper comfy beds, underfloor heating, hot power shower, fridge, microwave, and a fire pit. Directly facing The Summer Isles, sunrise and ‘golden hour’ over the sea are a heavenly sight to behold.

Achiltibuie: Local sights & activities

  • Sea kayaking with Kayak Summer Isles – paddle the waters around The Summer Isles, we circled Isle Ristol before landing on the island’s white sand beach.
  • Wild swimming – from the hostel, follow the burn down to the rocky beach for a bracing dip in view of the Summer Isles.
  • Explore Coigach – drive right round the peninsula for mind-blowingly beautiful landscapes, dreamy beaches and mountain vistas. Part of the North West Highland UNESCO Geopark, the area’s renowned geological features.
Isle Ristol, Kayak Summer Isles
NC500 Road Trip Base 3: DURNESS

Durness, the most northerly village in the UK, is characterised by dramatic coastline and flawless beaches, airbrushed only by Mother Nature herself. This far-flung wee pocket of Scotland was a highlight of our trip, as was the journey to get there. I’ve been dreaming of Durness ever since.

Lazy Crofter Durness

Where to stay: The Bothan at Mackays

Our trio was split up for this part of the trip. Aimee, who added on to the trip last minute, stayed in private two-person dorm at Lazy Crofter Bunkhouse, a rustic Highland hostel with cosy rooms, hot showers, a drying room, lounge area, and self-catering kitchen.

Jenna and I stayed in The Bothan at Mackay’s across the street which is owned by the same people. A quirky, black shipping container, with a stylish, super-comfy, studio-style interior with huge windows and incredible coastal views.

Lochinver Larder Pie

Kay’s route - Achiltibuie to Durness:

  • Ardvreck Castle – the tall, narrow ruins of a 16th century tower house which sits evocatively on the shores of Loch Assynt.
  • Lochinver Larder– an obligatory stop to try one of their delicious deep-filled pies.
  • Achmelvich Bay – a pristine paradise of white sand and turquoise sea in a sheltered bay.
  • Clachtoll – another jaw-dropping beach in a more exposed, windswept location with rugged seaside scenery.
  • Kylesku Hotel– go here for fresh seafood in a bright, attractive setting overlooking the tranquil Loch Glendhu. Afterwards, drive across the iconic curved Kylesku Bridge.
  • Driving time: 3 hours 10 minutes
Smoo Cave, Durness

Durness: Local sights & activities

  • Smoo Cave – the largest of any sea cave entrance in the UK, the great expanse of Smoo Cave is a NC500 natural wonder, complete with a waterfall chamber inside.
  • Sango Bay Viewpoint – follow the wooden walkway up to a rocky outcrop to look out upon bonnie beaches and endless sea beyond.
  • Beach-hopping – countless white sand beaches can be found along the coast; Durness Beach, Sango Bay and Rispond Beach are the most popular.
Outside Helmsdale Hostel
Road Trip Base 4: HELMSDALE

Helmsdale is a charming coastal village with historic buildings, pretty streetlights, a river, harbour and sea views. Located on the North East section of the NC500, Helmsdale is a popular pitstop to break up the long journey north or for those travelling to Caithness for the ferry to Orkney.

Family Room At Helmsdale Hostel
Lounge At Helmsdale Hostel

Where to stay: Helmsdale Lodge Hostel

Helmsdale Hostel was once the school gymnasium, before being used as a very basic hostel. It has since been lovingly renovated by the current owner, Irene, who bought the hostel in 2006, maintaining the original character with wooden panelling and high windows, while adding lots of cosy comforts, modern fixtures, and welcoming touches throughout.

Expect high ceilings, bouncy-soft carpets, bright and colourful dorms (ours was en-suite), a well-equipped kitchen, and a wood-burner in the lounge. This homely abode completely exceeded all expectations and we loved meeting Irene, Marie and Molly the collie.

Kay’s route Durness to Helmsdale:

  • Bettyhill – soak in the final views of the north coast and Farr Beach
  • Stops on the ‘Museum without Walls’ app. – developed by Timespan Museum to bring the rich history of the area to life, this smartphone app. provides audio and text descriptions at numbered points of interest along the route through the Strath of Kildonan, which we would’ve otherwise driven right past.
  • Thyme & Plaice, Helmsdale – we had lunch at this friendly wee local cafe
  • Driving time: 2 hours 20 minutes
Emigrants Statue
Badbea Clearance Village

Helsmdale: Local sights & activities

  • Timespan Museum – muchmore than just a museum, Timespan is a community hub, art space, and cafe.
  • Badbea Clearance Village – just 5 miles north of the town is one of the settlements where residents of the Sutherland Estate were relocated to.
  • The Emigrants Statue – in a corner of Couper Park in the town, the statue pays tribute to the Highlanders who left for good, boarding ships for a long and heartbreaking journey into the great unknown.
  • Dunrobin Castle, Golspie – 16 miles from Helmsdale is the truly enchanting 19th century Dunrobin Castle.
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